According to the guide books, the Galician pueblos of Muxia and Muros in the estuaries of the dramatic “Costa de la Muerte” (Coast of Death) and Rias Baixas, do not have much to offer. True if big museums and tourist attractions is what you’re after. Not true if you’re satisfied with getting a glimpse of daily life in a lazy Spanish village.
Muxia was preparing for the religious fiesta “La Romería de Nuestra Señora de la Barca”: the streets were decorated with lights, fields were prepared for stalls, trees were cut and the restaurants getting ready for a large influx of visitors. We could clearly sense that this would be a big happening, although there was still some 10 days to go before the opening of festivities. At the same time, the small town was filled with pilgrims having walked the Finisterre (“the end of the world”) route of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, and they too were attracted to the church Nuestra Señora de la Barca. As were we, although primarily for its stunning location overlooking the lively Atlantic ocean, and from where the origination of the name “Costa de la Muerte” is very well illustrated.
Muros was “like” at first sight: a lovely little beach and a fresh fish shop to the left, sidewalk cafés on a string to the right and an entanglement of stairs to the back (I love stairs!). Small plazas with yet other sidewalk cafés and seafood restaurants, laundry outside the windows, bright purple flowers. Streets literally emptied during the siesta, to be filled again when the temperature dropped down to liveable.
Hills and the even more profound of Spain just a bike ride away, with a magnificent water-view, with its many shellfish pontoons. A swim in a small undisturbed bay and a 1 euro-cafe-con-leche in a local bar on the road.
To me – this is a lot to offer.